Partially Circumnavigating Viti Levu within its Reef

June 22nd, 2024

This passage started after a crossing from Makogai Island west along the Broad Passage to the northern area of Viti Levu where we entered the Island’s Reef at Nananu Passage.  On arrival within the reef we anchored off Nananu-I-Ri Island.

Of particular note about the Nananu Passage the channel markers shown on Navionics weren’t visible (possibly missing or virtual markers on electronic charts). Also the channel turned out to be quite roomy as a passenger ferry overtook us on the port side mid-way through the pass! Vicki said, Oh well, just follow them! 

The next day we set off around 7 am headed in an anti-clockwise direction within the reef. Overall the trip was worthwhile in that we saw a lot of the land of Viti Levu and also the complex of reefs we were sailing through. Navigation wise, with Navionics the trip was mostly without surprises. The ‘recommended path’ (i.e., violet coloured dashed line on the charts) offered a sensible path, with a bit of discretion required to corner cutting in a few places where following the line was clearly unnecessary. One exception was when we were in the vicinity of Ba Roads, the charts warn mariners that the local river is depositing sediment and actual depths might be shallower than those marked on the charts. They were right, we were sailing along at around 7 knots outside of the marked deposition area when we approached a point on the inside of a turn in the channel, and thankfully I was watching the depth sounder and the depth started rapidly decreasing, counting down to 5 m water depth! Changed course rapidly to starboard (toward the center of the channel) and thankfully depth started increasing immediately. Otherwise the reef was easily navigable with due care.

Around the northern and north western part of the passage there was much variation in wind strength as we sailed past valleys and then the shelter of close headlands. The windiest area was the large bay west of Malake Island, where we saw 32 knots and a choppy sea for about 20 mins as we crossed the open bay. 

We saw most possible conditions during the trip. To start with there were c. 20 knots trade winds coming off the land which made quite pleasant sailing given the very limited fetch. Around Vatia Wharf, winds died off and we sailed at c. 3 knots. Then we lost the trades and the NW sea breeze kicked in. So we were close hauled pinching past the Ba Roads deposition area mentioned above.

We had to stay close to the wind on the sea breeze. At Yawalau Island, the wind was on our quarter, but only c. 10 knots so too light to sail down wind without motor-sailing if were were to make the anchorage before dark. Five nm further, the trade winds were wrapping around the south side of Viti Levu, giving us headwinds 20-30 knots as we were approaching our anchorage at Saweni Bay. 

If anchoring in Saweni Bay, be aware of reefs on each side of the bay toward the head of the bay. Approximately indicated by Navionics. 

Great day out on the water seeing a lot of the island of Viti Levu. Really quite challenging given the changes in wind strength and direction throughout the day as we headed around the island.

Cheers from Skipper Adam.